Open Hand Vs Half Crimp. half crimp with and without the pinky involved? He claims that you

half crimp with and without the pinky involved? He claims that you should rather train the half crimp, as the half crimp will make your chisel grip stronger as well, but the chisel grip will not make your half crimp grip stronger. This is the grip position defined by the extension of the pointer, middle and ring fingers. It is also quite simple, with all fingers bent at a 90-degree angle (the pinky finger may straighten slightly) and the thumbs disengaged to the side of the hand. Wrist curls are great for those who have problems controlling the position of their wrist. What are you crimping, and where are you crimping?2. Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used wheneverpossible. The half crimp and full crimp allow for a different variety of force application, and should be trained with that in mind. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. Alternatively, it will depend on your finger length. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand.

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